The walk from the central Tokyo train station to the TRUNK (Hotel) in Shibuya is nearly an hour and a half long. It’s a walk that takes you past the Imperial Palace (the Emperor’s residence) and Akasaka Palace, as well as the Shake Shack near the Meiji Jingu Stadium (go, Swallows!) and Dominique Ansel’s (inventor of the Cronut) outpost in Japan. It’s a walk that can be avoided if you prefer taking the subway (30 minutes) or want to grab a cab (20 minutes). But this girl likes to walk.

The TRUNK was the last hotel in which I stayed during my trip to Japan last fall and one to which I hope to return. (I recently directed someone else there and the rates were out of control — which they weren’t for my stay — so we’ll have to see.) Of the four hotels in which I stayed — in Tokyo, Hiroshima, and Kyoto — it was the most Western and, therefore, familiar (mid century furniture, English-language signage, Stevie Wonder tracks playing in the lobby) which may have been part of its appeal at the end of a (relatively) long and solitary trip.

They had me at hello.

After that hour and a half walk from the train station (I was returning from Kyoto), I was greeted at the front door of the hotel by a young woman who held the door open as she pronounced with a smile, “Welcome, Alison.” I hadn’t introduced myself; I wasn’t wearing a name tag; she just knew my name. Perhaps I was the only solo Western woman they expected to arrive that day; I didn’t care. They had me at hello.

She sealed the deal at the front desk* when she presented me with a “staff” t-shirt before sending me off to my room. It was everything I needed: a balcony surrounded by trees, a Bluetooth speaker, a strong hot shower, a kettle for tea, and a robe and pajamas that — while they made me look more like someone who was incarcerated in a communist work camp than a hotel guest — were perfectly cozy. It was like being in one of the better ACE Hotels.

I stayed at TRUNK for three nights. Despite being in Shibuya — known as a bustling spot in the city and famous for its chaotic crossing — it was relatively quiet and off the beaten path. The only noise came from the DJ set in the bar on the first floor one evening, which will make me request a room on a higher floor for a future stay.

As I had done throughout my trip to Japan, I walked for miles — more than an hour to Setagaya for ramen — but only about 10 minutes to the United Nations University Farmer’s Market, which takes place every weekend and is a perfect spot for people watching. Like the farmer’s market, many of the spots I visited — Uoriki for miso stewed mackerel, Apple & Ginger (which has since closed) for hot apple & ginger juice, the d47 Museum, whose name comes from their mission to feature design from all 47 prefectures in Japan — came via the “newspaper’ in my room curated by staff and featuring spots to check out in the neighborhood.

I didn’t walk the hour and a half back to the central Tokyo station when it was time to head to the airport and home again. Instead, I got my last looks at the city from a train window. If you’re heading to Narita, the Narita Express (aka N’EX) travels from the Shibuya station. It’s a little less than $30 one way and a little more than $35 round trip and like pretty much everything in Japan, it runs on time.

*By the way, if you’re looking to do business with a hotel that does good, a sign at the front desk indicates that TRUNK donates 5 million yen to charities per year (which is only about $45k USD, but still appreciated).

My Stay: November 9-12, 2017