A couple of weeks ago I was making a stop in San Francisco (on my way to LA) to attend an event and spend time with a friend. When I had gone online to book a room, the rates were through the roof — at least a 100 percent markup wherever I looked. This obviously happens from time to time — rates in New York and DC can fluctuate tremendously based on conferences and events — but it’s particularly aggravating when it happens in San Francisco, because the city is the worst hotel city in the country.

(It turns out IBM’s annual conference was being held in the city while I was there. The event website literally said, “Think 2019 is taking over San Francisco.” It’s a safe bet that, whenever anything sucks in San Francisco, it is the tech industry’s fault.)

I’ve been mystified by how bad San Francisco hotels are for a while now

I’ve been mystified by how bad San Francisco hotels are for a while now. There are a number of “grand” luxury hotels like the Fairmont and the Ritz-Carlton (too stuffy), a few giant corporate hotels (too boring), and a pile of really super shitty “boutique” hotels (too depressing), but that’s essentially it. The minimal research I’ve done suggests that housing and new office space have been a greater priority, but I’d sincerely love to know why, for example, Kimpton had a huge presence here a few years back but is now down to three properties AND groups like Sydell and Ace have no presence in the city at all.

Anyway, my go-to in San Francisco has been the Hotel G. The rooms are good (I love the headboards), the rates are decent, and it’s conveniently located (Union Square). There was a restaurant in the building that offered a decent brunch, but that seems to have gone away since my last stay (because why would San Francisco let me have something nice). Essentially, the Hotel G is perfectly fine, but I stay there on my infrequent trips to San Francisco because there really isn’t anything else.

And then I stayed at the Lodge at the Presidio.

There was a positive review in the New York Times of the Lodge last November, so I had added it to my list of hotels to try out in the future. According to the review, it had opened that June and was a “sister property” to the Inn at the Presidio (which I’d like to check out the next time I am in town.) It seemed insanely inconvenient — the Presidio (a former military post) is in the far north part of the city — but I was desperate for a San Francisco hotel that made me happy. When I booked, the rates were significantly lower than what I had found during my initial search of city hotels, which suggests that the Lodge’s location isolates it from conference-related hikes.

I was in.

You can read the New York Times review to get the details, including an excellent view of the Golden Gate Bridge and the joys of being surrounded by nature. (While I was waiting for my ride to the airport in the morning, I inhaled the glory of fresh mowed grass. Inhaling in Union Square is not recommended.) I was not as crazy about the robes as Bonnie Tsui was — I like super heavy terry — but the bathroom was truly beautiful — and well-designed. ( I never realized how much I love having a towel rack IN the shower.)

Yes, it’s true that the hotel lacks a restaurant, but the Presidio does not, as Bonnie says. I hadn’t eaten all day when I got to the Presidio Social Club in the late afternoon, so I may have enjoyed my meal more than on another day, but I too appreciated the feel of an “old school diner,” complete with white jacketed bartenders.

The Lodge does not have a gym, although you can make use of the YMCA. (The New York Times review says it’s a 5 minute drive, but YOU’RE GOING TO THE GYM, so you should note that it’s a less than ten minute WALK.) I skipped the gym on the sole morning I was there, opting instead for a quick early morning run to the Palace of Fine Arts and back (under two miles).

If you’re worried about the Lodge being too far outside of the city, I can assure you that I was able to get downtown for my evening plans in 15 minutes. There is a free shuttle downtown (PresidiGo) outside of the morning and evening commute, when access is limited to those who live or work in the Presidio.

I was only there for one night, which I lamented as soon as I arrived. I’m sure I’ll go back and — when I do — may decide to never leave the Presidio , choosing instead to take advantage of the quiet to get some well-earned sleep, run back down to the Palace, and breathe in the freshly mowed grass.

Update: I did indeed stay at the Inn at the Presidio — the Lodge’s sister property — for my next stay in San Francisco and, once again, fell in love with staying on the Presidio. I woke up to the sound of birds chirping, had an amazing walk/run up to the National Cemetery (where there are beautiful views), the Presidio Pet Cemetery (curiosity killed the cat — I don’t know what killed the rest of the pets) and around the edges of the Presidio. The Inn is smaller and more casual than the Lodge, but both are worth checking out for availability and to compare rates for your stay.

My Stays: February 11, 2019 (Lodge at the Presidio), May 19, 2019 (Inn at the Presidio)