Take the Stairs

I appreciated the champagne at check-in. It felt like the good old days were back.

I had last stayed at the Culver Hotel five years ago, but went back this month for my first visit to LA in nearly a year and a half. They’ve redone the hotel since my last visit, but not too much to ruin the historic LA feel that comes from being a National Historic Landmark previously owned by Mr. Culver himself, alongside Charlie Chaplin (who it is said to have lost the hotel in a poker game to John Wayne).

It was unclear how many guests were in the hotel, but the rooms and hallways were generally quiet, with the potential to run into the staff or a guest in the hallway, on the stairs or in the elevator (which is why I often took the stairs). The bar and restaurant had not yet opened following their COVID-related shutdown — they were planning to do so in September — and the hotel was only accessible to guests, with a key card slot at the front door . It was easy to get help from the front desk — where there were generally two people at work — and getting your room cleaned did not require a special request, as it had when I was in DC.

What was most notable about this stay — versus my stay five years earlier or even my stay at the local Palihotel in 2019 — was how much Culver City had changed. In addition to the outdoor dining and Culver Boulevard one lane shutdown resulting from Los Angeles’ “LA Al Fresco” program, the Culver Steps have emerged as a gathering space for tourists, families, and workers alike. It was where you could find me most mornings of my stay, enjoying a cup of Tantalizing Turkish from Philz and the free wi-fi — also from Philz.

If you need a central spot in the city that allows you to take the Metro (YES, mass transit in Los Angeles) both to the beach and downtown, consider booking a room at the Culver Hotel. I’ll see you on the stairs.

P.S. The Bee Sting pizza (tomato with soppressata, mozzarella, chili, honey and basil) at Roberta’s — a 10-minute walk down Washington Boulevard — is amazing and check out Hi-Lo Liquor Market for a great selection of beer and wine to bring back to your room.

P.S. The restaurant is now open, the service has improved considerably, and the nearby movie theater has reopened as well. But I still don’t love the Culver Hotel; I stay there because of its convenience.

My Stays: July 30-August 6, 2020; October 4-6, 2021; March 14-18, 2022; April 27-29, 2023